The Abode of Snow; Observations on a Tour from Chinese Tibet to the Indian Caucasus, Through the Upper Valleys of the Himalays

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1875 edition. Excerpt: ... CHAPTER VII. ZANSKAK, I SHALL touch very briefly indeed upon Lahaul, in order to pass almost at once into the more secluded and interesting province which affords the subject and the title of this chapter. Lahaul is pretty well known, being traversed every year by Himaliyan tourists on their way to Ladak. If we were to take it for a Hindusthani word (a subject on which I have no information), the proper translation of it would be "a howling wilderness;" and that is exactly what Lahaul is in one respect important for travellers. As compared with other parts of the Himaliya, it is far from being a howling wilderness in any physical sense of these words, because it is comparatively rich in trees and fields, and among the inner Himaliya the valleys are much more open than in the outer, where it is too often impossible to see the mountains because of the mountains. After the scenery around, there is a delightful sense of relief in entering its more open valleys and getting pretty full views of the great snowy ranges; there is also comfort in travelling along a cut road, however narrow it may be: but these advantages are counterbalanced by the disposition of the Lahaulese towards travellers, which is so bad that the tourist requires to be forewarned of it. There is, however, a great set-off to that in the presence of the Moravian missionaries, who at Kaelang have created an oasis amidst the squalor and wildness of this Himaliyan province, and have done as much for its improvement as the difficult circumstances of their position would allow. A Yarkund merchant had complained bitterly to me of the exactions and other annoyances which he was experiencing in Lahaul; and this, conjoined with my own experience--which I found afterwards to be in...