The practical work of dressmaking & tailoring; with illustrations

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1902 Excerpt: ...as not to stretch it, and tack it on to the revers, collar, or whatever garment is to be strapped, ready for stitching. For strapping the seams of a skirt, or any part of a dress, which has no interlining to make it firm, it is advisable to tack a strip of linen (cut on the cross, a trifle wider than the strapping), down each seam, on the wrong side of the skirt, and also any other part, such as round the skirt, where strapping is to be placed. This strip of linen prevents the material of the skirt becoming "puckered," and also raises the machine stitching, which1 is placed on the right side of the strapping--for if the material is very soft, the stitches sink into it, and do not show. Some tailors place the two raw edges of the strapping (when it is cloth) together, and oversew them, before tacking it flat for placing on the garment--especially when it is intended for strapping the seams of coats. After all the strapping has been tacked on, it must be stitched on either side, as near as possible to the edge. "lapped Seams." "Lapped" seams are made both on coats and skirts. To "lap" the seams, all the turnings must be on the right side of the garment, not on the wrong, and one turning of each seam must be left wider than the other. After the seam has been stitched together, the wider turning must be turned in once, and then tacked down flat to the coat, or skirt, covering the narrow turning (as in a "run" and "fell " seam), and then stitched down close to the edge. When the seams are being stitched together, care must be taken to place the wider turning uppermost in the machine, so that the right side of the stitch may be on the outside of the " lapped " seam. If the cloth is very thick, ...