Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant with a Past

First opened in 1895, Delmonico Restaurant and Bar in New Orleans was a Creole cooking landmark. Acquired by celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse in 1995, the new Delmonico's features classic dishes as well as Lagasse's riffs on traditional fare. Emeril's Delmonico offers 130-plus recipes from the restaurant--favorite dishes like St. Paul's Seafood Gumbo, Shrimp Remoulade, and Chicken Rocambeau (prepared with marchand du vin and hollandaise sauces), and "newer" fare such as Chorizo and Manchego Cheese Omelet, and Lump Crabmeat and Brie Strudels with Herbsaint Cream Glaze. This is, for the most part, rich, saucy cooking that requires a commitment of time--and in many cases, ready cash--to accomplish. Though the recipes aren't difficult, many entail multiple preparations (as well as Lagasse-brand products) to complete, and are probably best reserved for weekend cooking and eating. With an attractive section on desserts that includes Velvet Chocolate Tort with Clear Orange Caramel Sauce and Delmonico's famed baked Alaska (as well as a crème brûlée recipe that directs cooks to partially burn its sugar glaze--diners beware!), color photos, and sections on drinks and brunch dishes, the book will appeal to Lagasse fans who want either to fantasize about the master's cooking, or give themselves a kitchen workout. Those interested in Creole cooking, one of America's great inventions, should also take a look. --Arthur Boehm