Contemporary Irish Knits

Q&A with Author Carol Feller
Author Carol Feller Tell us a little about your background as a knitter?
Like most Irish children I learned to knit in school when I was small. I don t ever remember actually learning the mechanics but I have faint memories of knitting fingerless gloves in a lemon acrylic yarn! As I got a little older I began knitting garments for myself (as well as my dolls). I always had a big supply of cotton yarn available as my aunt owned a wool shop in Dublin.

For many years after that I did not knit at all. In fact, I almost forgot how to knit! My first child was born in Florida and when he was still small we returned to Ireland. The weather was so much colder I longed to knit some warm jumpers (sweaters) for him but didn t have enough time to relearn. Several children later I came across a new Irish online yarn shop (www.thisisknit.ie) and gave in to the desire to pick up my knitting needles again!

Once I began knitting again I was unstoppable, I tore through every knitting book I could find, and within 6 months I started designing. I find designing knits to be the perfect blend of the artistic and engineering sides of my brain, which makes me very happy on multiple levels.

I am just learning to knit and look forward to designing a few new patterns myself. What advice do you have for new designers?
Don t be afraid to experiment, and practice your pattern writing. When you are starting out you may find that patterns need to be rewritten several times before the directions make sense to other knitters. They then need to be read and knit by several people (and the numbers checked) before you reach a point that they are ready for the general public.

Knitters are very inventive and creative. However the pattern writing part of designing often takes a good deal of practice, and not everyone enjoys it!

What are the characteristics of traditional Aran patterns?
The concept of a traditional Aran pattern is actually a bit of a misnomer! Complex cabled Aran patterns are a relatively modern invention, dating from the mid-20th century. The Aran Islands was a very poor area and the sale of complex knitwear produced by the women on the islands was a vital source of income. The patterns they produced were a complex blending of cable patterns with highly textured stitches. The traditional yarn used for these garments was a cream (banin) 100% wool yarn that was very rich in wool oil (lanolin).

What are your thoughts on natural fibers like cotton and wool and bamboo versus synthetics like acrylic?
My own personal preference is for natural fibers. I like that they are breathable, comfortable to wear and very durable, for the most part. I especially like to use 100% wool yarns that are more durable. Often they can be a little rougher to knit when you are working with them but as soon as you wash them they soften beautifully. The huge advantage that they have over slightly softer yarns is that they wear really, really well. When you use a cardigan every day over a cold winter it is nice to know that it will look just as well at the end of the winter!

I do use yarns with acrylic content also when it is of benefit to do so. Sock yarn is a good example of this; socks take a huge amount of abuse and the addition of nylon helps them last much longer. I also like some blends of cotton and acrylic as it still retains the nature of cotton but by having an acrylic content you reduce the heaviness of 100% cotton especially for heavier weight yarns.

What s the favorite thing you ve ever knitted?
That s a really hard question! I ve probably got several different answers; I knit a shrug for my sister s wedding (Summer affair) a couple of years ago that I felt very proud seeing her wear on her wedding day. The cardigan which is shown on the front cover of Contemporary Irish Knits was also very satisfying. I had envisioned that pattern in my head almost a year before knitting it. It took me that long to figure out how to knit it in a way that would make it possible to write an easy to follow pattern for it.

In terms of the knit I wear most often, that would be a Felted Tweed version of my Akoya pattern. It is in a lighter weight yarn and I wear it summer and winter!

Where do you get your inspiration for pieces?
Sometimes an idea comes to me when I m swatching with a yarn; I ll start experimenting with the yarn using different stitch patterns and an idea starts to form. Other times I ll see a clothing detail and I ll wonder how that could be interpreted in knitting to make a fun knit and beautiful garment. Still other times, I began brainstorming ideas around a particular theme (although I often find I head in a totally different tangent!)

The inspiration for the book was a combination of all these different ways of working. The textured Irish yarn and subtle color blends were lots of fun to swatch with, especially with complex cabled patterns. The overall theme of the book was also always in my mind. I wanted to create a collection of designs inspired by tradition, but still very contemporary, flattering and wearable.

Tell us about your construction methods, why or how are they unique/ different?
I enjoy unusual construction methods, especially if they are seamless. The knitted fabric is flexible and versatile; knitting seamless takes full advantage of this. I knit garments from the bottom up, top down and even from side to side! All of the garments in the book Contemporary Irish Knits are worked seamlessly. When a garment is knit in one piece it makes it very easy for the knitter to try it on as they are working to ensure that they are getting a good fit. This also means that if you need to make any adjustments for your own particular body type, you can ensure you are doing so in the right location. Simple additions such as short rows to shape shoulders (rather than stepped bind offs) make for smooth lines and a more pleasant knitting experience.

Can you tell us a little about the Mills and the history behind them?
Until a few years ago I knew very little about milling and even less about Irish mills. Researching this book was a voyage of discovery for me with some interesting surprises along the way. I was astonished to discover how few mills still commercially produce yarns for hand knitters; I found only 3! These mills are sprinkled around the country. One is very far north ( Donegal Yarns in Donegal), Cushendale Woollen Mills is closer to the center of the country in County Kilkenny, and Kerry Woollen Mills is located close to Killarney in the South west of the country. Each of these mills produces their own unique style of yarn. Donegal produces a yarn with colored tweed flecks through it, Cushendale produces a lighter weight yarn in subtle, complementary shades and Kerry is the only mill in Ireland spinning organic fleece when it is available.

Each of these mills has been in operation for several generations, with information being passed on and techniques improved by each generation. The yarn each produces is beautiful and unique and deserves to be cherished as a distinctly Irish, usable yarn.

Do your sons knit or know how to knit? Or do they just like wearing what you make them?
Three of my four sons knit and my youngest (who is 5) desperately wants to know how, but can t quite manage it yet! My oldest son knit a hat for himself last summer with yarn he dyed himself using Kool Aid, and he wears it nearly every day. My 10 year old knit an entire sweater for himself last winter he was very proud of himself (as was I!) It was a top down raglan sweater that he finished with minimal help from me. My third boy likes to keep his hands busy and finds knitting great for his concentration.

Sample Patterns

Glengesh: Cable-and-Lace Wrap
(Click for pattern)Ardara: Women s Tunic Cardigan
(Click for pattern)