Bistro Laurent Tourondel: New American Bistro Cooking

At his BLT restaurants, chef Laurent Tourondel offers a tempting reinvention of bistro fare. His Bistro Laurent Tourondel presents over 150 recipes from his repertoire--"easier" fare like Adobo Marinated Hanger Steak and Braised Swordfish with Tomatoes, Olives, and Capers; and more "chefy" productions, including Camembert Beignets with Smoked Duck Salad, and Sea Salt-Crusted Pink Snapper with Ice Wine Nage. Sweets, such as Peanut Butter-Chocolate Parfait, Passion Fruit Crêpes Soufflé, and Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler are also on hand, as are sections on ingredients and techniques.

Tourondel's recipes cover the usual menu stops but also include interesting formulas for breads and sandwiches, like one made with spicy soft-shell crabs. Though planned for home cooks, and not difficult to execute in themselves, the recipes often require multiple preparations and, therefore, an ingredient array. Readers may also find the recipe headnotes generic or insufficiently forthcoming on technical and other matters (though there are occasional asides called Chef's Tips). These things said, the book, which includes color photos and wine suggestions, offers an interesting and savory collection that many cooks will want to try. --Arthur Boehm