Fashion Design ~ Creativity & Science: Module One- Master Blocks: Bodice, Sleeve and Dress for Five Figure Types (Volume 1)

Fashion Design: Creativity and Science comprises a series of pattern engineering training manuals, suitable for students from widely different backgrounds. The drafting systems in the manuals were developed as a result of the extensive experience I gained over many years working in the fields of fashion, education and training. My recently completed academic studies soundly support my earlier findings and provide compelling evidence that has also been instrumental in my decision to develop and publish the manuals, and share my insights with others. Each manual in the series will have a small but important focus on the sciences of structural anatomy (skeletal and muscular), external morphology (shape), applied anthropometry (taking measurements) and mathematics/geometry. I believe that an awareness of these sciences is invaluable, as it provides the underpinning of a solid foundation and framework from which quality patterns are produced, and is therefore the most effective pathway for achieving well fitting garments. As you may be aware, the size and shape of the female body in particular has changed dramatically over the past century. Not surprisingly, these morphological changes have had a major effect on the fit of garments and have created a significant challenge to the fashion industry. I strongly believe that educators, designers, pattern engineers, pattern technicians, dressmakers and fashion enthusiasts must know how to deal with female body size changes not only now but into the future. In many cases, the main players in Government, Industry and Education have not been able to address these changes due to the level of support the industry receives and the absence of current standards. Unfortunately, while the medical profession is well aware of biological changes in female body shape, the fashion industry is yet to address these issues. Therefore industry, students, retailers, and consumers are placed at a disadvantage due to the dilemma of what measurements to use and what size to make (or buy!). The assertion that clothes do not fit because they are made offshore is also very questionable, since overseas manufacturers are faced with the same dilemma: female body size and shape is changing worldwide. The series of compact stand-alone manuals will enable knowledge and skills in pattern engineering to be learnt in a self-paced format. Each manual will give readers a unique advantage at both a national and international level by providing the essential elements of garment and pattern engineering from a new and innovative perspective. Pattern drafting can be an exciting and rewarding activity. It need not be complex, as some have found from earlier negative experiences. Prepare to be surprised by seeing how easy this process can be, by simply following the colour coded systems and step-by- step instructions. This manual, which is the first of the series, will enable readers to produce standard master blocks of a bodice, sleeve and dress for five female figure shape categories. These five figure types were identified in a study “The Changing Size and Shape of the Australian Woman” (Berry, 2001). Data for each figure type obtained in the study are included in this manual. Colour coding identifies the sections relating to each figure type. Step-by-step instructions are clear and concise and associated diagrams are conveniently numbered. You will find I have included some references to geometry which has been used for centuries by certain authors of pattern engineering systems who substituted geometric shapes for particular regions of the body. You may find using geometric principles deepens the awareness of how a pattern is shaped to follow the contours of the human body. The geometric shapes enhance the ability to recognise the wide variation in female body size and shape, and are an additional tool for shape identification.