A Short Textbook of Cosmetology: A Short Guide to the Development, Manufacture and Sale of Modern Skin Care and Skin Protection Cosmetics with an Aside on the History and Prehistory of Cosmetics

The present text reflects the author's own learning curve in cosmetic science. While working in the laboratory on the synthesis of new organic UV-B and UV-A sun-screen agents, the question of skin penetration by the molecules was often raised. The study of over a hundred references on the biochemistry, homeostasis (self-regulation) and the morphology of the skin led to the first chapter, and to the historical overview of the research efforts which helped to elucidate the skin's permeability in chapter ten. Later work in the cosmetic development laboratory on the protection of hair from sunlight and weathering meant that knowledge about the morphology and biochemistry of human hair had to be acquired, effort which has been condensed into chapter two. Sunscreen milks, lotions and creams have replaced the hitherto popular sunscreen oils because emulsified sunscreen products showed higher efficacy, better consumer appeal and safety. To reach the previously fixed objectives for a new product, which include the sun protection factor (SPF), the rheology, the skin feel, the stability, the safety and the scent, the formulating cosmetic chemist needs to acquire basic knowledge of sun protection (chapter three), emollients, i.e. cosmetic oils and silicone fluids (chapter five), consistency giving agents, thickeners (chapter six), preservatives (chapter seven), and emulsion technology (chapter eight). Modern sunscreen formulations also claim moisturization properties (chapter four) and water resistance. In modern skin care formulations, vitamins play a vital role in moisturization, skin-repair, after-Sun, anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, anti-radical claims. Chapter ten has therefore been completed by an abstract on the historical development of the vitamins relevant to skin care, such as the vitamins A, C, E, the provitamin Panthenol and the polyunsaturated fatty acids (pufas), formerly erroneously considered as vitamins.