Italy Al Dente: Pasta, Risotto, Gnocchi, Polenta, Soup

"Though good Italian cooking should be rooted in strong regional traditions," Biba Caggiano writes in her introduction to Italy al Dente, "I also believe that one should not follow rules slavishly because ... food adapts itself to new modes.... Flexibility in the kitchen is essential, the quality of ingredients is everything, and simplicity of execution is a must. Another important prerequisite of the Italian cook is fantasia, or imagination and creativity."

One might view this book, then, as a guide to Italian fantasia, Biba style. Start with brodo, or broth, and move right along to Bean, Cabbage, and Rice Soup. Or Barley and Porcini Mushroom Soup. Biba Caggiano has been in the Italian food game long enough that she is determined to come up with special treats for her old fans and new followers alike.

Both elegance and simplicity lace their ways through this cookbook as it addresses Italian foods found most often at the front end of the meal: soups, pasta, risotto and rice dishes, gnocchi, and polenta. Biba is determined to take the reader right to the heart and soul of Italian cooking. Risotto with Duck Ragu? Case closed. --Schuyler Ingle