American shoemaking Volume 51

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1914 Excerpt: ...to any system man, and for the past three years have been located in factories where we used our own system, and I believe that the average cutting room foreman is smart enough to install his own system if he would only put his mind on it. I will be glad to answer questions through the columns of this magazine by any cutting room foremen, who are desirous of in-" stalling a system wherein they may lighten their burden and, at the same time, show their interest in the business of their employer. LOCK-STITCHING. There has been some talk from time to time about the proper setting of the lock-stitch in the work. This is the correct rule, as explained by an expert on those machines. The lock should be as nearly on top as the conditions will permit. When the channel has to be brought down the lock should be set deeper into the sole than when the sole is stitched aloft. But, in stitching aloft, the groove in the sole should be deep enough to protect the thread from the buffing operation, provided that the lock cannot be reached; the nearer to the top, the better for the wear of the seam. With upper stock, the rule differs, in that the lock should be set further in the leather, next to the flesh portion, which is the real strength of upper stock, and the part, which is, therefore, most suitable to hold the stitch. Then the wearing of the seam is entirely different from that of sole leather. To set the lock correctly in any kind of leather, the correct size thread for shuttle thread, in relation to and the stitcli is next to worthneedle thread, is of prime importance. The shuttle thread, when too large, cuts the needle thread less. Questions and Answers. How Can We Prevent Moulding of Gun Metal Shoes in the Carton? How Are Turn Shoes Lasted Before Fastening on ...