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Probability distributions of peaks, troughs and heights of wind waves measured in the black sea coastal zone [An article from: Coastal Engineering]
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This digital document is a journal article from Coastal Engineering, published by Elsevier in . The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Media Library immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
Description:
The present paper examines the adequacy of different probability density functions to describe the peaks, troughs and peak-to-trough excursions of wind waves measured in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea. For that purpose various theories for non-Gaussian random process are applied. Some theories depend on the mean, variance and coefficient of skewness @c"3 of the process. Others also take the coefficient of kurtosis @c"4 into consideration. The analyzed field data are gathered in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea with depth decreasing from 18 to 1.3 m. The measurements are carried out simultaneously for 11 points with time series of 20 min duration. The coefficients of skewness and kurtosis in those time series are expressed as functions of depth and spectral peak frequency. Analogous dependencies on depth of other parameters are also found. As a result of the investigation it is concluded that the probabilities of occurrence of large wave crests and heights are underpredicted by all of the theories considered. e troughs are well described by the theory of [Ochi, M.K. (1998). Probability distribution of peaks and troughs of non-Gaussian random process. Probilistic Engineering Mechanics 13, 291-298.]; for negative values of the coefficient of skewness the troughs are in good agreement with the theoretical results of [Al-Humoud J., Tayfun, M.A., Askar, H. (2002). Distribution of non-linear wave crests. Ocean Engineering 29, 1929-1943.]; the theoretical model of [Mori, N., Yasuda, T. (2002). A weakly non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train. Ocean Engineering 29, 1219-1231.] is not appropriate for shallow water.
Description:
The present paper examines the adequacy of different probability density functions to describe the peaks, troughs and peak-to-trough excursions of wind waves measured in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea. For that purpose various theories for non-Gaussian random process are applied. Some theories depend on the mean, variance and coefficient of skewness @c"3 of the process. Others also take the coefficient of kurtosis @c"4 into consideration. The analyzed field data are gathered in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea with depth decreasing from 18 to 1.3 m. The measurements are carried out simultaneously for 11 points with time series of 20 min duration. The coefficients of skewness and kurtosis in those time series are expressed as functions of depth and spectral peak frequency. Analogous dependencies on depth of other parameters are also found. As a result of the investigation it is concluded that the probabilities of occurrence of large wave crests and heights are underpredicted by all of the theories considered. e troughs are well described by the theory of [Ochi, M.K. (1998). Probability distribution of peaks and troughs of non-Gaussian random process. Probilistic Engineering Mechanics 13, 291-298.]; for negative values of the coefficient of skewness the troughs are in good agreement with the theoretical results of [Al-Humoud J., Tayfun, M.A., Askar, H. (2002). Distribution of non-linear wave crests. Ocean Engineering 29, 1929-1943.]; the theoretical model of [Mori, N., Yasuda, T. (2002). A weakly non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train. Ocean Engineering 29, 1219-1231.] is not appropriate for shallow water.
