Designing Dress Patterns

Begin sketching the bodice. Think about the neckline and fit. Everyone has a different anatomy, so design with an eye for accommodating your special fit needs. A plunge bodice, for example, won't suit a woman with a large chest, while a halter may look awkward on a small bust. Keep in mind that a very low bodice requires a higher back or nape tie to hold the dress together. When finished with the trunk of the body, begin sketching croqui's arms. Decide on a sleeve shape and add the piece to the sketch. Sleeves vary in cut and size, with some requiring a very wide or slanted set when stitched. When designing the sleeve, think about freedom of movement and pulling; don't draw a woven dress with a super-tight sleeve that won't give. Add any cuffs or turned hems at the wrist, if necessary. Add the skirt to the dress, remembering to add seam lines for contouring on more fitted designs. If a skirt is very full, draw in a few crinkles at the waistline to show gathers. Utilize shading brings out the skirt's fullness or slimness. The occasion for the dress will come into play here, since professional and casual skirts are often roomy or A-line, rather than very full or very slim. For a slim skirt, add in vents for freedom of movement if the fabric will be nonstretch. When illustrating the hemline and drawing the legs, be mindful of placement; too short a dress may look inappropriate, depending on the event. Use colored media to shade the dress, taking care to shadow the garment in places where there will be creases. Don't worry about filling in every part of the dress; just color enough to get a sense of how the finished garment will look and feel. Finish by adding any features such as beadwork, buttons or other trimmings.