In the Green Kitchen: Techniques to Learn by Heart: A Cookbook / Waters, Alice

Spaghettini with Garlic, Parsley & Olive Oil from Lidia Bastianich
2 servings

This dish of Lidia’s is what I make for supper when I return home tired and hungry after traveling. I like it very plain, with lots of parsley, but you could spice it up by adding a pinch of dried chile flakes or chopped anchovy, and serving it with grated cheese.

Salt
1/3 pound spaghettini
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
8 to 10 branches Italian parsley, stems removed, leaves chopped

Bring a generous pot of salted water to a boil over high heat, and stir in the spaghettini. Stir frequently and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until tender but still firm.

Meanwhile, put the olive oil and garlic in a saucepan and heat gently until the garlic begins to sizzle and release its fragrance; take care that it does not brown or burn. Add the parsley to the pan along with 1/2 cup of the pasta water. When the pasta is cooked, use a skimmer to lift it out of the water and directly into the pan, or drain it, reserving some of the water, and then add to the pan. Toss the pasta and let it simmer briefly in the sauce to finish cooking and absorb the flavors; add more pasta water if needed to keep the pasta loose and saucy. Taste the pasta for salt, and add more if needed. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Salt & Sugar Pickles from David Chang
4 servings

David makes these pickles to be enjoyed right after seasoning, while they are still vibrant and crunchy.

3 very large radishes
2 thin daikon radishes
2 thin-skinned cucumbers with few seeds
2 pounds seedless watermelon
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sugar

Prepare the vegetables and fruit and arrange in separate bowls; there should be about 1 1/2 cups of each kind. Halve the radishes and slice into thin wedges. Cut the daikon radishes crosswise into slices about 1/8 inch thick. Cut the cucumbers crosswise into slices about 1/4 inch thick. Remove the rind of the watermelon and cut the flesh into slices 1/2 inch thick and then into 2-inch wedges. In a small bowl, combine the salt and sugar, and sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of the mixture over each vegetable and the watermelon and toss. Let the pickles stand for 5 to 10 minutes, arrange separately on a platter, and serve immediately.

One-Pot Roast Chicken from Thomas Keller
4 servings

One 3-pound chicken
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
3 potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and thickly sliced
2 onions, peeled and quartered
2 celery stalks, thickly sliced
4 large shallots, peeled
Fennel, squash, turnips, parsnips, or other vegetables (optional)
2 bay leaves
2 or 3 thyme sprigs
2 to 3 tablespoons butter

First prepare the chicken. To remove the wishbone at the top of the breast, use a small knife to scrape along the bone to expose it, then insert the knife and run it along the bone, separating it from the flesh. Use your fingers to loosen it further, grasp the tip of the wishbone, and pull it out. Tuck the wing tips back and under the neck.

Tying the chicken plumps the breast up and brings the legs into position for even roasting. Cut a length of cotton string. With the chicken on its back, slip the string under the tail and bring the ends up over the legs to form a figure eight. Loop over the end of each leg and draw the string tight to bring the legs together. Draw the string back under the legs and wings on either side of the neck. Pull tight, wrap one end around the neck, and tie off the two ends. Salt the chicken evenly all around. Coarse salt has a good texture of large grains that makes it easy to calibrate how much salt you’re putting on the chicken; sprinkle it from up high, so that it falls like snow. Season liberally with fresh-ground pepper.

Preheat the oven to 375°F, put all the vegetables and herbs together in the bottom of a large, heavy ovenproof pot, and season with salt and pepper. Set the chicken on top, dot with the butter, and roast uncovered for 45 to 60 minutes (or longer), depending on the size of the chicken. It is done when the leg joint is pierced with a knife and the juices run clear, not pink.

Let the chicken rest for a few minutes before carving and serve family-style with all the caramelized vegetables and juices from the pot on a platter and the chicken pieces on top.